Big surprise, I know...
With the motor toasted this project is now officially on hold. I will be moving my blogging efforts over to (http://dewaltgwiresto.blogspot.com/). The 925 will stay on the shelf, literally and figuratively, until I find a frame 236 for it.
This could be 3 days or 9 months, it's impossible to say.
I spent a few minutes this morning pulling the motor completely apart to shelve all the parts (rotor, end bells, fan, bearing retainer, screws, tie rods, capacitor, open frame relay, and Klixon). I will see if I can get a few bucks for all the copper in the windings before taking the carcass to the recycle center.
I will be cleaning up the past posts on this blog and adding more pictures as time allows for the sake of history.
Friday, February 12, 2010
Thursday, February 11, 2010
...and yet more motor
I was messing with the motor again this afternoon.
I put the fan back on and ran it for 5 minutes to check out the heat rise. Not too bad, only the rotor got warm. Then I put an 8" blade on it and repeated the test. It seemed to run fine.
Then I turned it off and when I went to turn it back on again I just got a slight movement of the blade and a humming/buzzing motor. Uh, oh. Hmmmm.
The capacitor is new. The relay seems fine (but I can check it). Methinks the start windings might be toast.
I have been on the lookout for another frame 236 anyway since this motor has never given me a very good feeling. Since I have a second 925DLX I might take the 236 off of my hot rod R1350 and put it on this 925 for the restoration, turn the DLX into my daily driver and save the R1350 column for a Frankensaw.
In other news, I am waiting on some goodies for my GWI (http://dewaltgwiresto.blogspot.com/) and I am also planning on having the ways of my 3526 arm re-ground by Original Saw Company (yet another blog). They charge $500 plus $18.52 per bearings if they need to oversize them after grinding the arm. I just need to find a decent way to freight them to Iowa since initial estimates are something like $200 each way. Ouch!
I'll be selling or donating my MBF shortly. It is time to finish up these restorations and pick two saws to keep. I assume it will be the 3526 and the GWI but you never know until they are set up and aligned...
I put the fan back on and ran it for 5 minutes to check out the heat rise. Not too bad, only the rotor got warm. Then I put an 8" blade on it and repeated the test. It seemed to run fine.
Then I turned it off and when I went to turn it back on again I just got a slight movement of the blade and a humming/buzzing motor. Uh, oh. Hmmmm.
The capacitor is new. The relay seems fine (but I can check it). Methinks the start windings might be toast.
I have been on the lookout for another frame 236 anyway since this motor has never given me a very good feeling. Since I have a second 925DLX I might take the 236 off of my hot rod R1350 and put it on this 925 for the restoration, turn the DLX into my daily driver and save the R1350 column for a Frankensaw.
In other news, I am waiting on some goodies for my GWI (http://dewaltgwiresto.blogspot.com/) and I am also planning on having the ways of my 3526 arm re-ground by Original Saw Company (yet another blog). They charge $500 plus $18.52 per bearings if they need to oversize them after grinding the arm. I just need to find a decent way to freight them to Iowa since initial estimates are something like $200 each way. Ouch!
I'll be selling or donating my MBF shortly. It is time to finish up these restorations and pick two saws to keep. I assume it will be the 3526 and the GWI but you never know until they are set up and aligned...
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
It's all about vocabulary
We used words like "polished" and "shiny". OK. This was not exactly what I had expected, LOL! Well, live and learn. This has not been a good winter for my saw restorations.
It just screams "hot rod" which is not a bad thing but I want it to simply state "industrial" in a calm way. I'm curious to see how it will behave inside the column. I can always throw it on the wire wheel and give it a brushed look but, what the heck, maybe I'll like it when I get it all together. I have decided that this particular 925 is going to be pure gloss white so it may just work out fine.
They polished it and then put a coat of copper on, I think, polished that and then hit it with Nickel. Wow. Very reflective. It's tough, too. I tried the wire wheel on the section where the arm goes and the Nickel basically laughed at me.
It just screams "hot rod" which is not a bad thing but I want it to simply state "industrial" in a calm way. I'm curious to see how it will behave inside the column. I can always throw it on the wire wheel and give it a brushed look but, what the heck, maybe I'll like it when I get it all together. I have decided that this particular 925 is going to be pure gloss white so it may just work out fine.
They polished it and then put a coat of copper on, I think, polished that and then hit it with Nickel. Wow. Very reflective. It's tough, too. I tried the wire wheel on the section where the arm goes and the Nickel basically laughed at me.
Friday, January 22, 2010
The Column - Off to the shop!
OK, back at it!
I took the column down to a "chrome shop" today. Superior Chrome in San Jose, CA. they're big into custom cars and such - show quality chrome.
They will "strip" (bead blast) and hand "polish" (hellifiknow) the column and then coat it with nickel. This costs $120.00. It may sound like a lot but if you've ever stood and bent over a wire wheel with a 25 pound chunk of steel for 1/2 hour you don't know what pain is. It hurts the back, arms, and eyes. No, thanks!
The last ghetto shop I used did not "polish" before electroless nickel plating my MBF column and it came back pretty darned nice ($85.00). I predict this shop will produce a killer column.
I'll post pictures as soon as it comes back (~2 weeks).
I took the column down to a "chrome shop" today. Superior Chrome in San Jose, CA. they're big into custom cars and such - show quality chrome.
They will "strip" (bead blast) and hand "polish" (hellifiknow) the column and then coat it with nickel. This costs $120.00. It may sound like a lot but if you've ever stood and bent over a wire wheel with a 25 pound chunk of steel for 1/2 hour you don't know what pain is. It hurts the back, arms, and eyes. No, thanks!
The last ghetto shop I used did not "polish" before electroless nickel plating my MBF column and it came back pretty darned nice ($85.00). I predict this shop will produce a killer column.
I'll post pictures as soon as it comes back (~2 weeks).
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Still not quite there with the GWI
I loath drive screws. I really do.
Unfortunately the 925 will be put off for another week while I sort out the GWI.
I also received the last of the parts needed to begin work on the long awaited modern DC saw brake. More on that later.
Unfortunately the 925 will be put off for another week while I sort out the GWI.
I also received the last of the parts needed to begin work on the long awaited modern DC saw brake. More on that later.
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
What's taking so long?
I haven't been active with this saw because I am preparing to get my GWI back from the paint shop and need to make sure I am ready to put it together when it comes back.
I just need to get the column ready to be polished and then I'll get back to work on this 925 and start posting regularly again.
I just need to get the column ready to be polished and then I'll get back to work on this 925 and start posting regularly again.
Friday, January 8, 2010
Centrifugal Brake
So I pulled apart the motor and took a close look at this thing.
It doesn't appear to ever have worked, basically. When the motor is not running it should scrape lightly against the housing next to the rear motor bearing. When the rotor is spinning, centrifugal force should pull the two arms scraping the housing away from it by what looks like 3-4mm. On mine the arms can't even reach the housing.
It looks like the previous owner may have wired it open for some reason.
In this picture the surfaces are all covered with some white rust/residue which should be worn away where the arms scrape the housing.
While I was in there I cut out a bit more of the insulating material mentioned here. Now the motor does not make the "tiff, tiff, tiff" sound although when I run the motor (albeit with the rear fan removed) the rotor still warms up for some reason.
My experience with this sort of thing is very limited. On my GWI motor, on which I spent a lot of time getting it perfect, I found that if there isn't enough forward pressure on the front bearing via the rotor that it will heat up. I solved that on the GWI by adjusting the rear bearing by pulling it off of the shoulder slightly so that there was more pressure on the front bearing. It worked like a champ although many folks felt this was the wrong thing to do (bearings should always be pressed onto the shoulder, etc..) Personally, I go with what works. The motor was quiet, powerful, no oscillations, and didn't heat up. Good enough for me.
Given that the rear bearing on the frame 235 "floats" so I don't think I have the same option here. Any suggestions?
It doesn't appear to ever have worked, basically. When the motor is not running it should scrape lightly against the housing next to the rear motor bearing. When the rotor is spinning, centrifugal force should pull the two arms scraping the housing away from it by what looks like 3-4mm. On mine the arms can't even reach the housing.
It looks like the previous owner may have wired it open for some reason.
In this picture the surfaces are all covered with some white rust/residue which should be worn away where the arms scrape the housing.
While I was in there I cut out a bit more of the insulating material mentioned here. Now the motor does not make the "tiff, tiff, tiff" sound although when I run the motor (albeit with the rear fan removed) the rotor still warms up for some reason.
My experience with this sort of thing is very limited. On my GWI motor, on which I spent a lot of time getting it perfect, I found that if there isn't enough forward pressure on the front bearing via the rotor that it will heat up. I solved that on the GWI by adjusting the rear bearing by pulling it off of the shoulder slightly so that there was more pressure on the front bearing. It worked like a champ although many folks felt this was the wrong thing to do (bearings should always be pressed onto the shoulder, etc..) Personally, I go with what works. The motor was quiet, powerful, no oscillations, and didn't heat up. Good enough for me.
Given that the rear bearing on the frame 235 "floats" so I don't think I have the same option here. Any suggestions?
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